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Full text of "Arduino"

Build a MakerShield 



.1 



Make Projects 



build, hack, tweak, share, discover,^ 



Build a MakerShield 



Written By: Marc de Vinck 



TOOLS: 



• 



Solder (1) 
Soldering iron (1) 
Wire cutters (1) 



PARTS: 



MakerShield (1) 



SUMMARY 

If you aspire to do more than blink an LED with your new Arduino or Netduino, you need a 
prototyping shield that allows you to build a circuit. After listening to our readers and 
customers, we created a new kind of prototyping shield that supports the needs of noobs as 
well as advanced users. Introducing MakerShield! 

Unlike conventional prototyping shields, Maker Shield lets you create circuits the way you 
want, and easily change them without having to solder. All of the MakerShield's major 
components and pins are user-assignable, allowing you to jump from any component header 
pin to any pin on the microcontroller. Make all the changes you want. Just jump and go! 

The MakerShield's potentiometer lets you switch between 5V or 3.3V signals, so the growing 
numbers of Netduino users can use MakerShield too. 

Being able to change the pins connected to the onboard LEDs, button, and potentiometer 
allows beginners to learn Arduino software with ease, while more advanced users will 
appreciate the convenience of the onboard components, the incredible flexibility, and the 

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Build a MakerShield 

ability to stack another shield on top — the MakerShield uses stackable header pins and 
retains the original ICSP pin locations of the Arduino. 



Step 1 — Build a MakerShield 



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• Compare the kit contents to those 
listed on the product page in the 
Maker Shed. 



Step 2 




• First we will add the red and green LEDs. The LEDs have 1 long lead and 1 short lead. The 
long lead goes into the hole labeled (+) on the PCB. We recommend putting the green LED 
on the right side (side with the logo) and the red on the left side, but choice is yours. 

• After you put the LEDs into the board, flip it over and bend the leads outwards so they will 
stay in place while you solder them. 

• After you solder the leads, clip them close to the board. 



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Page 2 of 8 



Build a MakerShield 



Step 3 




• Next, add the matching resistor for each LED. They are inserted into the board at locations 
R1 and R2. Resistors are not polarized, so you can place them in either direction. Notice 
how the resistor is standing up, or "tombstoning." This board is packed with components, 
and this is a great way to save space! 

• The second picture shows the resistor for LED2. It is soldered in the same way as LED1. 



Step 4 




• Next, we'll add the buttons to the 
board. They snap in place at 
locations BTN1 and RESET 
(possibly BTN2). Flip the board 
over, solder the leads, and trim. 
Easy! 



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Page 3 of 8 



Build a MakerShield 



Step 5 




• Now we will add the power filtering capacitors. They aren't polarized, so their orientation 
doesn't matter. Add them to the area of the PCB by the "tx" and "rx" pins. Make sure they 
match the silkscreen and are placed in the correct holes. 

• Next, bend the leads out, the same as you did with the LEDs and resistors, and solder 
them in place. 



Step 6 



X^ 



• Adding the ICSP header. It's much 
easier to add the ICSP header pins 
by placing them in the appropriate 
spot on the PCB (labeled ICSP) 
and flip the board over on a flat 
surface. This holds the pins against 
the board and makes soldering a 
snap. 

• Note: Be sure to trim the leads 
on the back. They need to be as 
flush as possible. 



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www.makeprojects.com 



Page 4 of 8 



Build a MakerShield 



Step 7 




• Solder the 3.3V - 5V jumper pins. Use the same method for soldering in the 5v - 3.3v 3-pin 
header. The short ends of the pins should be placed through the board and soldered. The 
long leads will be facing up, or on the topside of the board. 

• Next, go ahead and add the included jumper so you don't lose it! This jumper allows you to 
select either a 3.3v signal from the potentiometer, or a 5v signal. 



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Page 5 of 8 



Build a MakerShield 



Step 8 




• Adding the power and user selection header pins. Now we can add the 8-pin female header 
(with the short pins!) on the PCB at the top of the board. 

• Note: Be sure to use the 8-pin header with the short pins! 

• You can use a little piece of tape to hold the female header pins in place, or you can hold it 
with your finger and solder 1 pin to hold it in place. I wrap the solder around my PanaVise 
to keep it steady. Easy! 



Step 9 




• Use the same technique to solder 
in the 4-pin female header pin (with 
short pins!) to the location on the 
bottom of the PCB labeled "BTN1, 
LED1, LED2, POT1". 



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Page 6 of 8 



Build a MakerShield 



Step 10 




• Now it's time to solder in the stacking header pins. Place the header pins in the PCB on 
the left and right side. You should have two 8-pin female headers on the right side and two 
6-pin headers on the left. After you place them through the board from the front, carefully 
flip the board over on a flat surface and solder at least one pin of each header section. 

• In the second picture, you can see that each header has one pin soldered to the PCB. Now 
you can flip the board over and make sure all the stacking header pins are in alignment. 
Once they are aligned, go back and solder all the remaining pins. DO NOT TRIM THESE 
PINS! 



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Page 7 of 8 



Build a MakerShield 



Step 11 




• The last step is to solder in the potentiometer. We solder this in last because it has a long 
shaft and would interfere with soldering in the female headers. 

• The potentiometer only fits one way. Orient it properly, bend the leads out a little, and 
solder in place. The last step is to trim the leads. You're done! 



Step 12 




• Make sure the pins are all lined up 
and plug it into your favorite micro- 
controller. Now all you have to do 
is plan on what you're going to 
make! 



This document was last generated on 2012-10-30 07:55:21 PM. 



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Page 8 of 8